Vestis Legis

Primogenitus. Curator. Vancouver. Halifax. Lex. Menswear. Coffee. @vestislegis

A Weekend Wax Job

Left to my own devices on a recent weekend, I decided to re-wax my old Barbour Beaufort. With my girlfriend and roommates out of town I had the apartment to myself, so what better way to pass a sunny Saturday afternoon then with thornproof Barbour waxed dressing and a cask-aged Manhattan?

I bought my first Barbour several years ago, used on eBay for about fifty quid. I’ve since bought another this way. I highly recommend it. Used Barbours, in great shape, can be had on the British eBay at considerable savings - so long as you’re willing to put in the labour re-waxing these aged beauties.

The process is deceivingly simple; as long as you follow a few simple steps it’s hard to screw up.

You can see how faded the jacket looks after a season or two of wear without being properly waxed. While the patina of faded olive may look nice, the light almost-khaki coloured patches are spots where the wax dressing is completely worn off, and thus the durability and waterproofing of the jacket has been compromised. Furthermore a dried-out Barbour will rip and fray, the wax dressing keeps the fabric moist and resilient to things like… thorns.

I’ve read various blogs on how to wax a Barbour, and while most of the information in the blogosphere is good it tends to make the process sound more complex than it really is. The blogs also tend to skim over the fact that your hands will get very waxy undertaking this project, and it takes a little elbow grease.

First and foremost you need an open space, preferably a large table that you can move around easily. Spread the jacket out on newspaper, and give it a quick brush down to remove any chunks of mud or dust. Don’t use soap or water. Ever.

Next you need to pull out your handy tin of Barbour waxed dressing. There may be other brands that do the same job - I don’t really know, but this tin cost me twelve quid a couple years ago, and it does the job properly, so not worth messing around with imitators.

At this point you may want to grab your cocktail or single malt of choice.

To turn the wax into a liquid drop it in a pot of boiling water. Within a couple minutes it will turn clear and runny. Pull it out, throw it on a coaster near your jacket.

I use disposable sponges to apply the waxed dressing. They’re good because they can absorb some wax, but also don’t have too much surface area, and they are disposable.

Now the trick to applying the wax is to dab a little on to the sponge, then one section at a time apply it to your jacket. Map out a plan of attack so you don’t miss any spots. Avoid the temptation to just start painting your jacket all willy-nilly. Go one sleeve at a time, then one front panel at a time, and when you’re content you’ve got the whole front of the jacket coated, stand down for five minutes, refresh your drink, and then start on the back.

You want to do more than just lather the jacket; you need to really rub it in. Pay special attention to seams, and creases, and high friction places. If you wear a backpack, or throw a bag over your shoulder frequently when wearing your jacket the shoulder areas are likely in need of a heavy coating.

Don’t worry too much about getting the wax in the buttons or zippers, it will rub off with everyday wear.

Finally hang the jacket up, not only to let it breathe, but also so you can give it a final 360 degree inspection. The wax should still be relatively soft, especially if you’re in a warm apartment, so you can move around any clumps, or touch-up any spots you missed. If you are looking for a factory quality finish take a blow dryer to the jacket, this will ensure an even and smooth looking sheen to the jacket, and will break up any wax stuck in seems or grooves.

First couple wears will be waxy, so be sure to take it out for a spin when you wont be sitting down on fabric covered seats. Enjoy.

An X-ring. A Halifax alley. A Cuban cigar.

An X-ring. A Halifax alley. A Cuban cigar.

Word is out that it is none other than Brooks Brothers who has outfitted the stars and extras in Baz Luhrman’s remake of the film The Great Gatsby. Tiffany & Co. apparently got the nod to provide jewelry.

Apparently Fitzgerald himself was a Brooks Brothers customer, and he often mentioned the storied brand in his writings as the “ultimate purveyor of fine gentleman’s clothing.”

No doubt the film, arriving in theatres this coming Christmas, will provide lots of talking points for menswear enthusiasts on colours, fabrics, layers and lapel widths.

Lagavulin. Port Ellen, Isle of Islay. In the 1980s, during an era of waning Scotch sales, Lagavulin was a part time distillery peddling third-rate Scotch behind the likes of Bowmore and Laphroaig. Today Lagavulin is a seven day a week operation with over 85% of Lagavulin production now bottled as a single malt.
During law school there was a pronounced shortage of Lagavulin 16 year old in Halifax. Fortunately I had a good friend from undergrad, living outside the jurisdiction in Massachusetts, who was able to ship me up a bottle. He took this photo before he shipped me the bottle. He is a good man.
The nose has been described as ” intensely smoky” with the scent of “seaweed” and “iodine”, yet sweet, and of course peaty. If you haven’t yet tried a dram - I highly recommend it.

Lagavulin. Port Ellen, Isle of Islay. In the 1980s, during an era of waning Scotch sales, Lagavulin was a part time distillery peddling third-rate Scotch behind the likes of Bowmore and Laphroaig. Today Lagavulin is a seven day a week operation with over 85% of Lagavulin production now bottled as a single malt.

During law school there was a pronounced shortage of Lagavulin 16 year old in Halifax. Fortunately I had a good friend from undergrad, living outside the jurisdiction in Massachusetts, who was able to ship me up a bottle. He took this photo before he shipped me the bottle. He is a good man.

The nose has been described as ” intensely smoky” with the scent of “seaweed” and “iodine”, yet sweet, and of course peaty. If you haven’t yet tried a dram - I highly recommend it.

A girl. Acadia University. Spring time. Wolfville, Nova Scotia.

A girl. Acadia University. Spring time. Wolfville, Nova Scotia.

In 1868 the All England Croquet Club was formed at Wimbledon, a district of London now known best for its affiliation with tennis. Since then croquet has become a summer staple for college kids, and for those of us who aspired to be polo players, but lacked the public school upbringing and requisite stable of ponies.
If you’re fortunate enough to have a relatively flat and grassy yard, warm weather, friends and cold beer, there is simply no better way to pass an afternoon.

In 1868 the All England Croquet Club was formed at Wimbledon, a district of London now known best for its affiliation with tennis. Since then croquet has become a summer staple for college kids, and for those of us who aspired to be polo players, but lacked the public school upbringing and requisite stable of ponies.

If you’re fortunate enough to have a relatively flat and grassy yard, warm weather, friends and cold beer, there is simply no better way to pass an afternoon.

Collar Pins

Fundamental? Perhaps not. Superfluous is more likely.

Here I’m wearing a 2” sterling silver collar pin from J. Press. Brooks Brothers makes 2.25” and 2.5” inch models, but I believe the shorter pins looks better. A collar pin adds a nice bit of volume to your tie knot, and keeps your collar crisp and firm looking.

Yes, you do have to pierce your shirts to put the pin in, but the holes are tiny and after the shirt is washed they seem to disappear.  I recommend wearing collar pins with shirts you’ve had laundered a least a couple times so the cotton is a little more supple and broken in. Some brands of dress shirt put an extra couple strips of fabric on the underside of the collar where the collar stays slip-in. This can make piercing with the collar pin difficult, and if you aren’t careful you’ll end up with a collar pin bent out of shape. If this happens, don’t worry, the pin can be put back into shape pretty easily.

A tip for putting your collar pin in: I would recommend piercing one side of the collar first, while your shirt is still on the hanger. Then put your shirt on, and tie your tie. Remember you want the pin to sit underneath your tie knot, so when piercing your collar think about the size of your tie knot in relation to the length of the collar. You should not have a gap between your knot and the pin.

In front of a mirror, swing the pin underneath your knot and pierce it through the other side of your collar, being sure to have your pin relatively level. A crooked tie pin looks rather strange.

I would also recommend only wearing a collar pin with shirts with a narrow collar spread. Attempting to pin together a  shirt with a cutaway collar, or other style of collar with a large spread would not only look ridiculous, but it would be almost impossible to do. It also goes without saying that a collar pin should never be worn with a button down collar. I think a collar pin would look great with a well worn oxford, but I haven’t been able to find any oxfords without button down collars. The contrast of the shiny silver, with a muted pastel oxford would probably look fantastic.

The collar pin isn’t for everyone, and in the modern workplace probably isn’t even for every day wear. But much like french-cuff shirts, the pinned collar is a sophisticated change from the ordinary.

Girlfriend. Summer. Vancouver. Weekend.

Girlfriend. Summer. Vancouver. Weekend.

Fundamental. Madras.

Fundamental. Madras.